The Life and Times of Tex Bosier – American descending innovator Floyd “Tex” Allen Bossier, born in 1944, passed away on September 7, 2015 at Saint Jorioz, France.
1961 : First Ascent Of Culp Bossier Route
As a climber, Tex Bossier is good known for obligating the first ascent of the classic Culp Bossier route (III 5.8) at senility 16 with Bob Culp on the North Buttres of Hallett Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado in the summer of 1961.
The route ascends a steep alpine is confronted with lots of moderate climbing and ticklish routefinding. Culp, in his story Full Value, expressed the view that in 1961, “Tex’s enthusiasm supported so unshakeable that he soon becomes one of my favorite spouses”. The ridge weather turned on the pair as gust moved in that afternoon, but they clambered relentlessly, finishing the itinerary in a normal Colorado thunderstorm.
Bossier’s 1960S Climbing Partners
Bossier displayed a zest for descending as well as laughter and modesty the working day, characters which he carried on many more ascendings over the years. His descending spouses were a who’s who of 1960 s descending enormous, including Layton Kor, Yvon Chouinard, Huntley Ingals, Pat Ament, and Jim McCarthy.
Tex Climbed With Layton Kor
Bossier was one of Layton Kor’s regular spouses in the early 1960 s around Boulder, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and Rocky Mountain National Park.
One of the most appropriate weeks was in 1963 when Kor and Bossier clambered various routes, including the first ascent of the Gray Pillar (III 5.10 d), on the lower East Face of 14,265 feet Longs Peak. The last place itinerary they did was a continue of The Diagonal (V 5.11 b A0) which Kor had first clambered in 1959 with Ray Northcutt.
Kor guessed we are able to straighten the line, succour descending up a thin crack to Broadway, a large ledge, instead of bridging up right.
Big Drama On The Diagonal
The pair immediately clambered The Diagonal’s lower moves, reaching the bridge in four hours. Then the rainfall began. Kor thought it was easier to continue up the brand-new word rather than withdraw so he headed up the bottoming cranny. Rainfall, however, funneled down the cheek and the rope, robbing Bossier at his belay stance. He afterwards remembered, “I was freaked out. Then it started getting cold, but we were committed”. Progres was slow as Kor facilitated upward and Bossier had “irrepressible throb and pangs on the belays”. He remembered if they didn’t get off the ascent the working day that he maybe wouldn’t survive.
Layton Kor Saves The Day
The rain turned to snow and fog shifted across the cheek. Bossier, however, had the right descending marriage. Layton Kor, one of best available climbers in the world at that time, resumed hammering pitons. Bossier had his disbelieves though, remembering, “What’ gonna happen if we get stuck? Who is there to come and rescue us? There’s only one person in the whole of the United States who can get me off this climb and I’m with him” At 1 point an deluge cascaded down the wall, smacking Kor out of his aiders, but he swarmed back up and the pair finished the itinerary, the Diagonal Direct (V 5.9 A3), drenched to the surface in a snowstorm.
More Adventure With Layton Kor
Layton Kor’s autobiography Beyond the Vertical associates more climbing escapades with Bossier, and Tex himself confined fibs for the book about first ascendings he shared with Kor at Rocky Mountain National Park and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in western Colorado. Layton Kor wrote, “Tex Bossier’s willingnes to jump into the deep end on such epic escapades as the Diagonal Direct and Chasm View Wall, and” re coming in “smiling, was a task in spirit and good spirits in the face of catastrophe”.
Tex Bossier Remembrance By Pat Ament
Colorado climber, musician, master, and writer Pat Ament shared a remember of that golden age of American rock climbing and of his love and descending marriage, Tex Bossier.
In the dark of the Sink, that little beer joint on the Hill in Boulder, we often picked.
I was a very young, but always there were Layton, Tex, Culp, Huntley Ingalls. Dylan’s Just Like a Woman frisked on the juke container. I view Tex’s face in the smoky, nasty atmosphere. We sat at heavy wooden picnic counters every inch of who the hell is engraved with names and mottoes. There were fibs to be told, adventures to narrate, among the darks in that black. Layton had to stoop to go through the doors into the Sink, and always with him were some one of us who labelled along, about to embark on a brand new undertaking the following day, or to start the drive somewhere that evening”.
Ament And Bossier Climbed Around Boulder, Colorado
“In 1965 I hung by naked handwritings from Supremacy Crack. My belayer was Tex Bossier. He was one of our small-time, upper class corps of climbers around Boulder, and I talked him into going with me to Eldorado Canyon to try this new cranny David Rearick had discovered. Neither of us had much know with side sounds, it was therefore would be a learning process. When I glanced down at him, he smiled with permission and said he was amazed anyone should want to try such an overhanging cranny. I was just out of high school, and hes been older and more mature. I relied on him for insight, and I’m sure his soundness in a good way compensated my brashness. He had such a good spirit and was a pleasure to be around. By excellence of his vicinity I wanted to do well. Everyone liked Tex. He was Bob Culp’s partner on any number of climbs, and he was Layton’s partner at times. I did not clear the cranny the working day, but Tex admired me that I went over halfway.
Climbing In Eldorado Canyon With Ament
One era Tex and I decided to ascent in Eldorado. He was totally out of shape and had not done a ascent in months. Yet he was in the mood and ready. I told him we could try the Northwest Corners (5.10) of The Bastille, and he did not hesitate to agree. I had a detecting I was going to take him up on something too hard, and sure enough at the crux move on the first tar, as he followed, he moved too high, did not view the hold out to the title, and after a transgression or two (seconding) made a really hard move that was certainly most difficult than the normal 5.9 move.
He was gung ho and tittered in his usual wry, outraged kind of road. That was that, though. Ament, you are getting too strong, he enunciated, in his usual accepting road. This is something we all retain about Tex, that he knew who each of us was, that he noticed and attended. One tar was enough. We rappelled and proceeded somewhere easier.
Tex Bossier Was Generous And Patient
We are going one by one, but with every breath of life to which we maintain, as best we are able, and with every sense that lasts of those consecrated epoches, we retain, muse, and feel fortunate to have been part of a era when all was new. Almost everything we clambered was a first ascent. I see in my intellect numerous advances with Tex, a very good person. I don’t know anyone who did not like him. While perhaps not the most powerful climber, he was always willing to set off on an adventure, ready whether it be the smooth fortres of Hallett Peak, up into lightning with Culp and only a handful of old bent pitons, or with Kor and Jim McCarthy on a 2,000 feet wall on North Chasm View in the Black Canyon. He was one of us.
“Tex’s recent demise in France of cancer made him from us, though in mas only and not in tone. I hear that laugh of his, that bewilderment he always showed whenever someone did something well. He was generous and was patient with my senseless names. Like Layton Kor, Tex will recur the terrain of Longs Peak, the Black Canyon, and Eldorado Canyon. It will be essential to retain such grand souls”.