Elevation : 14,158 feet (4,315 rhythms) 25 th highest crest in Colorado.
Prominence : 3,030 feet (924 rhythms)
Location : Sneffels Range, San Juan Range, Colorado. Pinpointed in the Mount Sneffels Wilderness Area northwest of Ouray in southwest Colorado.
Coordinates : 38 deg0 0′ 14 ” N/107 deg4 7′ 32 ” W
First Ascent : Unknown. The first enrolled ascending was by member of the Hayden Survey on September 10, 1874.
Fast Facts :
Mount Snefels is the twenty fifth highest crest in Colorado and is one of Colorado’s Fourteeners or 14,000 feet ridges.
Mount Sneffels, composed of obtrusive stone entered into weaker volcanic “rocknrolls”, some 20 million years ago in the early Miocene. Sneffels’ harder stone weakens scarcely gradually than the cover volcanic, so the mountain stands higher than its neighbours. The Sneffels Range itself, the long crest tuft from Ouray to Telluride, is the Sneffels Horst, an uplifted error obstructing.
Mount Sneffels Name
Mount Sneffels was specified for Snaefell, a stratovolcano in Iceland, by surveyors from the Hayden Survey in 1874. The Icelandic mountain and its glacier were featured in the then popular tale A Journey to the Center of the Earth by early sci fi writer Jules Verne. In the book, the impatient booster Professor Lidenbrock slopes a volcanic tube with his nephew and a navigate into the mountain Snaefellsjokull, literally “snow crest glacier”, to explore inexplicable underground world wides.
Mount Sneffels Climbing History
The firstly enrolled ascending of Mount Sneffels was by members of the Hayden Survey team on September 10, 1874, although the mountain was perhaps condescended prior to that by miners and native Americans. The jaunt was led by Dr. Ferdinand Vanderveer Hayden, a Civil War veteran and geologist who led various inspections in the Rocky Mountains between 1869 and 1878.
The North Face of Mount Sneffels, dividing up steep couloirs and bumpy rib, was firstly condescended by members of the San Juan Mountaineers Dwight Lavender, Mel Griffiths, Charles Kane, and Gordon Williams in July, 1931. Dwight Lavender, sidekick of far famed historic novelist David Lavender, described the aspect : “The taunting north appearance of Mount Sneffels, untrodden by somebody, had summon to us for years. It was not until last place summertime that we are at last find capable of affecting its sinister frost drops off shaven with snarling rock-ribs and several instant gendarmes”.
In July, 1932, Lavender, Grifiths, and Wiliams rendered and made a more direct route up the appearance, climbing steep snowfall and stone to the summit.
In August, 1933, Lavender and Griffiths again returned and sunk the North Buttress route (III 5.6) with Lewis Giesecke, Henry L. McClintock, Mary McClintock, and Frank McClintock. The new roadway ascended immediately up a steep rock rib above the primary snowfield. Griffiths described the rib : “Black rock rose up approximately vertically for some three or four hundred paws before it began to give back into the gentler and of the Face proper. Mercifully, as far as we could see, the stone was break up exquisitely by horizontal and horizontal crackings”. The roadway up the pitch-black rib, today rated 5.6, spawned half the working hours. Above the climbed easier stone up a gully to a serrated tuft, then finished up a final gendarme and tuft to the summit where the crew realise the long nights probed across the appearance of the jumbled dimension.
Mel Griffiths and Gordon Williams acquired the first wintertime ascending of Mount Sneffels in 1934. Another illustrious wintertime ascending was in 1983 by Lyle Dean and Kitty Calhoun up the northeastern couloirs to a direct stone finish.
Climbing mount Sneffels
Mount Sneffels is often sunk by the Lavender Couloir Route (Class 2+), specified under pioneering climber Dwight Lavender. The roadway is accessed from Yankee Boy Basin to the west of Ouray. In late springtime and early summertime when snowfall crowds the couloir, it is easily sunk exercising crampons and an frost axe. Eventually in the summer after the snowfall defrosts out the ascending is a long steep slog up scree and loose boulders. The seven mile long roadway, beginning at the Yankee Boy Basin Trailhead, clambers 3,450 feet to the summit .
The Southwest Ridge (Class 3) of Mount Sneffels is a classic scrambling roadway that offers enjoyable and sustained climbing up a long uncovered crest with great views. The roadway, compared with the normal Lavender Couloir, is rarely sunk it was therefore has a wilderness event to it. The roadway, likewise beginning from the Yankee Boy Basin Trailhead, clambers talus drops off on the western feature of a cirque on Sneffels’ south feature to Blue Lakes Pass, then follows the bumpy tuft, legislating steeples and scrambling up gullies to a final airy tuft.
The North Buttress (III 5.6) is a classic rock climbing roadway up ribs and faces on the North Face of Mount Sneffels that is best climbed in July and August after the majority of members of the snow has lightened off the stone. The approaching does, nonetheless, imply climbing snowfields below the appearance. The roadway ascends the appearance of the buttress (5.6) until it consolidates into a steep uncovered tuft which is followed to a notch at the opening of the Snake Couloir. Finish with a loose climbing slope (5.6) to the summit. Generate a govern of cams and Stoppers along with an frost axe and crampons for the snowfield. Watch for loose stone and wear a helmet.
The Snake Couloir, likewise “ve called the” Dogleg Couloir, is a significant alpine snowfall and frost climb up a steep couloir or gully on the right side of the North Face. Strap on crampons and clamber the 40 degree couloir for 1,000 paws, legislating a crux neighborhood where it inhibits and steepens. Above the couloir, climb up left (watch for loose stone) and finish up the North Buttress route or boost immediately up stone stripes to the summit. A rope is helpful now as well as in the couloirs, depending on ice status. Bring crampons, frost applies, frost fuckings, a light footed rack, a rope, and helmet. Watch is not simply for loose stone but likewise for stone falling down the couloirs. An early start is advised to avoid rockfall.
Colorado Fourteeners : From Hikes to Clamber by Gerry Roach, Fulcum Publishing. Gerry Roach’s guide to climbing Colorado’s Fourteeners is an definite, accurate, and exhaustive steer to climbing Mount Sneffels as well as the rest of Colorado’s 14,000 foot heydays. The work includes over 250 timetables, detailed topographic maps, and photos.