Adventure : What were you thinking at this moment ?
Mark Healey : I was thinking that triggering wasn’t an option !
A : Tell us about this waving ? What was it like to errand it ?
M.H. : This waving is called Teahupoo. It’s at the end of the road on the southeast area of Tahiti. It is truly one of the meditates of “the worlds”, and I’ve been making an annual pilgrimage there for the last 17 times. The waving is started because of the remarkable posterior contour. It rolls from 150 feet deep to bone dry bank in a matter of 100 soils. That is required that the unimpeded verve of Southern Ocean increases are thrust up in a matter of seconds producing a merciles, albiet “rideable” waving.
A : We have heard the brandishes have been better than average at Teahupoo. Why ? And why has this moment been so special to surfers ?
M.H. : In a conventional Southern Hemisphere growth season we get, on average one very large proliferation for Tahiti, and it often peaks for a matter of hours. Last place week we encountered three days straight of some of the most difficult surf to thump Tahiti in recent recollect. This was due to a complex typhoon organisation that spawned off of Antarctica and was genuinely three hurricanes acting as one, feeding off of each other.
A : When did you hear this swell was coming in ? What did you do ?
M.H. : I encountered the forecasted typhoon on the following chart about a few weeks out and checked it about 20 times per day until it comes down! I try not to get emotionally attached to a swell that far out, because so much better can change. When it was 48 hours out and still seeming big hearted, I booked my flight to Tahiti.
A : For a big wave surfer, what does it mean to you to be journeying brandishes like this in the ocean ?
M.H. : This was a very special waving for me because it was the largest I have ever ridden there. It took a pinnacle of know how from my times there to run it successfully. To be a part of an verve like that is something that’s hard to put into texts.
A : How many other big wave surfers came out for these ways ? What was the place like ?
M.H. : A packet of big wave surfers depicted up. The proliferation was no secret. It gets really crazy out there. The photo boats get so close to the waving and are jockey ing for more and better order while the surfers are jockey ing for the brandishes themselves. It can make an once risky statu a lot worse. Parties were being referred off to the hospital nearly hourly. Thank God no one lived.
A : How do you know when it’s time to go home ?
M.H. : After I caught this waving, I got on the Jet Ski and trawled my friends into some brandishes and ran sanctuary. You can’t get too greedy. I got what I had come for the working day.
A : Are you working toward any large scale aims right now ?
M.H. : I’m always training courses and would be interested to errand the most difficult brandishes on countries around the world, but lately I’ve been focusing more on rendering my own experience in the ocean to a wider audience. I want to show people the amazing things that our ocean has to offer. If that stimulates parties to appreciate it more, then they are much more likely to want to protect it.